Ga hap rau ram: steamed chicken with Vietnamese mint
Tags: blog, cooking experiments, asia, chicken, onion, rau ram, sriracha, sweet, vietnam June 27th, 2012Aka gà hấp rau răm. This started out as gà xé phay, a classic appetiser from the North/Centre. See, I had those rau răm leaves from the supermarket, so I thought I would make it from Bach Ngo’s Classic Cuisine of Vietnam. That was before I thought, “Hey, remember that cookbook you brought from Vietnam? See if you can find the recipe in there”. Fifteen minutes later, I was still seating at the table with the cookbook open at the page of the recipe, and the dictionary open on my knees–flipping through pages, muttering and cursing, and pausing only brief to google a tricky word that wasn’t in the dictionary or in my personal vocabulary. The variant in the book looked like an interesting recipe, except that a. I didn’t have most of the ingredients listed, and b. some things were plain odd, for instance the marinating of the onions followed by a complete omission of said onions from the subsequent bits of the recipe (or the surprise appearance of the rau răm about halfway through the recipe).
So I did what I usually do: went wild. Most of the stuff I didn’t have either got substituted or nixed; and the stuff I didn’t understand got fixed by referring to the Bach Ngo recipe. The end result is… pretty unconnected to either of the two recipes, but it tastes pretty good!
Do try to find rau răm if you can: it’s really one of those recipes that tastes quite different if you do the usual mint substitution.
For the nước chấm recipe, see here.
- 600g chicken
- 1 red onion, sliced paper thin
- 1 tablespoon rice wine
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 2 tablespoons sriracha sauce
- 1 tablespoon sugar
- ½ teaspoon pepper
- 2 tablespoons hoisin sauce
- 6 tablespoons nuoc cham
- 1 teaspoon sesame oil
- 1 garlic clove, cut into small pieces
- ⅔ cup rau ram leaves, chopped into small pieces
- Mix together the salt, the rice wine, 1 tablespoon sriracha, the sugar, the pepper and the red onion (in this order precisely, in order to have a smooth sauce before putting in the onion). Let the flavours develop for 20-30 minutes.
- Cut the chicken into rough chunks, and steam it in a basket for 20-30 minutes, until cooked.
- Meanwhile, mix the sauce: the hoisin, the nuoc cham, the sesame oil, the garlic clove and 1 tablespoon of the sriracha. Taste and adjust: it should be sweet with a kick and a tang (especially, the hoisin taste shouldn’t overwhelm the other flavours).
- When the chicken is cooked, chop it into small pieces. Mix well with the rau ram leaves.
- Take the onions out of their liquid, rinse them once in cold water, and add to the chicken. Mix well.
- Pour the sauce on top of the chicken-rau ram-onion mixture. Serve with rice and a vegetable.
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- Ga kho gung: braised chicken with ginger
- Ga xao dam gung sa: chicken with lemongrass and macerated ginger
- Lemongrass pan-fried chicken






June 28th, 2012 at 5:25 pm
Thank you for a great recipe. I made this last night and it was a huge hit. I had to substitute regular mint since I couldn’t find rau ram (went to the big Asian market here, kind of a shock that they didn’t carry it). Will keep trying so we can try it again with the real mint!
June 28th, 2012 at 9:30 pm
Interesting idea to add sesame oil. I’ll have to try that. I won’t try the vinegar though; I love this dish with lime juice.
Do you have Pham Mai’s “Pleasures of the Vietnamese Table? She’s got a great recipe for ga bop, basically the same dish, on p. 79. I usually play with recipes quite a bit, but I stick pretty much to her quantities for this one. The only difference is that I use purple shallots instead of the yellow onion she asks for. Her recipe is for a Hue version, but all the Hue people I know use purple shallots.
Rau ram is easy to root from cuttings, and can be grown indoors is pots. Outdoors in summer, it grows like crazy.
June 28th, 2012 at 10:08 pm
Lee: aw, thank you for the feedback, and glad it worked out OK! The rau ram is a bit of a different flavour (but glad to know mint will substitute in a pinch
)
Chris: the Vietnamese cookbook was actually the one that gave me the idea for the sesame oil (I suspect it’s by Southerners because of the heavy use of coconut and lemongrass in all the recipes, but so far I’ve had a lot of success cooking from it, or at any rate taking it as an inspiration).
I do have Pham Mai’s book, but by and large I’ve never really connected with it? It’s really silly–I’m sure the food is very good, but it’s basically not the stuff I grew up with? I turn either to the Vietnamese cookbook or to Ngo Bach’s The Cuisine of Vietnam, which is closer to what I remember from when grandma was cooking complicated dishes for us…
June 29th, 2012 at 1:49 am
I’ve wanted that Bach Ngo book for years. It’s out of print, it seems. I did connect with Pham’s book, and cook a lot from it, though I’ve modified the recipes to suit my taste. Perhaps the use of sesame oil in the south of VN originated in Chợ Lớn. Seems likely. Looking forward to reading more of your food posts here.
June 29th, 2012 at 7:44 am
Yup, it’s out of print, but at least at the time, I got a second hand copy without too much trouble…
(I’ve never seen sesame oil used by my grandma, but yeah, it’s probably a Chợ Lớn import. There were/are plenty of Hoa in Sài Gòn)